18

I've been in Johor Bahru over two weeks now and I've been to Malaysia quite a few times, and I've been around Southeast Asia a fair bit. But I can't figure this out and haven't run into it elsewhere.

My guesthouse is in a residential area where most of the locals and eateries plus a few Indian but no Chinese.

Sometimes I just can't figure out how to order, who to order from, how a place even works. I can walk in looking like a hungry customer, nobody asks me to take a seat or take my order or to go to a specific person. Usually there's no uniforms so it's a bit unclear who is staff. The kitchen or half the kitchen may be out in the open. No visible cash register. Often no menus. But you can see there's food and there are customers sitting and eating. Sometimes you can tell the staff are kind of talking about you but even if you approach one or try to make eye contact they just go about whatever they were doing as if stirring or chopping is their job but taking customers' orders isn't.

This never happens at Chinese eateries and I've never experienced it anywhere else in Southeast Asia and I've eaten at many tiny places on the side of the road in the sticks or in random suburbs. In places where English speakers are much rarer than here.

Also it doesn't always happen here in all Malay places. I walk in looking lost and hungry and even if they don't speak any English they treat me like a customer.

But it has happened multiple times at multiple restaurants. I must be missing something.

Is there a trick? What do locals do?

hippietrail
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3 Answers3

15

The best thing to do is act like you know the language, ask anyone who is passing by "Kerja di sini?" which means "do you work here?". This will usually get their attention and even if the person is not working there he/she will at least point you to the right direction.

I think the main reason why they are avoiding you is the language barrier especially in places were foreigners do not visit. I've faced that personally in similar eateries in Jakarta. However, after they know your face, they will come to you next time.

These places have no specific order (sit then order, order then sit) either way it will work.

A few more words will make the order much easier:

  • Nasi: Rice
  • Ayam: Chicken
  • Daging: Beef
  • Air putih: Water
  • Mi: Noodles

and you will do fine...

hippietrail
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Nean Der Thal
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3

Many of these "local" Malay places are "nasi campur" places that are open for breakfast and lunch only and often close around 3pm.

"Nasi campur" has been described to me as the Malay version of "Nasi kandar" which is the Indian/Mamak version that tourists might be slightly more familiar with. I've also had the difference described to me as nasi kandar being just rice and curry while nasi campur has rice, curry, and other stuff. I'm still not sure which is technically correct but both definitions are helpful. I think translating directly is "mixed rice" for both. Westerners may think of these as "buffets" but if they associate the word "buffet" with all-you-can-eat then this will be less helpful as these places are "pay for what you take" rather thay "all you can eat". (Though you can often refill the rice.) Similar places with Chinese food are often but not always called "Economy rice".

The best such Malay places will have happy staff and happy customers and will have lots of customers. But it's sufficient if only the staff or only the customers are happy (-: If the staff seem baffled but other customers are friendly just ask them how it works.

Usually there's a disorganized line where at one end you take a plate and there'll be one or more large plastic containers with lids on that contain the rice and there will be a rice scoop inside. Some places will have multiple types of rice such as pandan rice. As well as plates there will be takeaway containers.

After you take your plate or container the line usually moves in both directions so just do your best to shuffle along from dish to dish in the trays to what looks yummy. To ask what certain things are I usually ask "in apa" - "what's this" but the answers usually only tell you the animal it came from. So you'll be told "ayam", "daging", "ikan" for "chicken", "beef", "fish". But you won't be told if it's regular flesh or organs or anything about the preparation. You might be told in English or Malay if it's spicy "pedas" but if it's a yellow or red curry/gravy/sauce it's probably spicy.

At Malay places you almost always just take your plate to a table and start to eat and a member of staff will come over, take a look, and give you a slip of paper with the amount. If you're not in a touristy area it's very likely to be lower than you expect. The same person or another person is likely to ask if you want a drink. The question is often "air?" pronounced "ire" which literally means "water" or sometimes the less ambiguous "minum" which means "drink". When you're finished you take the slip of paper with the price to the counter and pay. In some places it's hard to spot who to pay so in a new place I glance around trying to figure it out while I'm eating.

(At Chinese places that are similar you stop with your plate to show a person who tells you the price and you pay then before sitting.)

If you see the payment counter between selecting your food and sitting down you can probably pay first or they'll tell you in a friendly way to just take a seat. Malay places are very laid back and trusting so you can wander around looking for the hand-washing basin before paying. Often there are no tissues unless you ask.

Some mamak (Indian muslim) places are quite like this too. But some are much more like restaurants like you're used to with waiters milling around offering you a menu.

There are of course also Malay restaurants that are not "as local" as described but those are usually not confusing so don't need to be described here. They'll either have a menu at least on the wall or attached to the food cart. If it's a restaurant they'll treat you like any restaurant. If it's in a kopitiam or food court they'll typically only have two or three dishes at each stall, just as the Chinese, Indian, and Western stalls will.

hippietrail
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0

Small Malay restaurants are usually for Malays. The expectation is the customers will be Malays. Imagine you own a shoe store and a whale shark flies into your store. How do you respond?

Most famous Malaysian cuisine isn't Malay (!!) - Baba Nonya is Portugese, Roti Canai is Mamak, I'm pretty sure teh tarik is too. Most famous Malaysian dishes are just not Malay - the notable exceptions would be Nasi Lemak and Nasi Kerabu. Basically, many of these restaurants stink (sorry) so most people don't go unless they have to (Halal, proximity, low price).

Malay kopitiam? The non-Malay version is better (number of customers would indicate this observation is more than opinion). Chicken rice? It's four times more expensive when its halal.

I think the workers are just surprised to see you. Are there good Malay restaurants - sure of course, but where the only small business open to most low-middle income entrepreneurs is food shops, there tends to be about 10 bad ones to every good one. If I see a small under-occupied Malay restaurant, I keep looking - the staff may be wondering why you didn't.

That sounds pretty bad, but Malay restaurants are usually a non-halal eater's last choice. Even then, most halal eaters will go to the halal Mamak restaurant before the Malay store 70% of the time. They might be wondering why you are there. It would be like the Vladimir Putin walking into an Arby's - most people will assume he's lost. I'm not saying all Malay restaurants are bad - far from it, but there is soooo many more bad Malay restaurants than there are of any other type of cuisine in Malaysia.

I hope I'm am being fair - but a lot of these off the beaten track restaurants just stink - and the staff might just be surprised to see you!

If I'm wrong and it's just the language barrier, employ one or two BM words you know. Seeing you stumble over some BM will put them at ease to converse with you.

hippietrail
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lowledu
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